Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Finding the Artisan in Duty Free

6/28/08 -- I’m stuck in Santiago, Chile’s international airport for a 9-hour layover with all the other cheap riff-raff because I’m too stingy to pay the $135.00 visa fee to enter the country. To fill my time I stretch out to take a nap. But I’m promptly crowded out by a chatty family glaring at me for taking up two seats. I then walk around Duty Free stunned that people still buy Toblerone bars and Clinique face wash. Where is product diversity? Granted, airports aren’t the world’s source of creative expression, but even in Chile I can’t escape the same old Duty Free junk.

Somewhat frustrated and bored, I obviously, given my new profession, wandered into a Chilean wine shop. Here I must find something original. Some grape varietal I’ve never heard of, a unique label or at the very least reasonable prices.

As I enter my frustration increases. It is the same damn wine culture as everywhere else. Bunches of plastic grapes hanging on a stenciled wall. Fake oak barrels stacked with pewter embellished decanters. A mosaic floor with chubby angels pouring wine into the mouth of a naked woman. Uuughh! Did I come all this way to find wine culture to be the same? Why don’t I just sell Tommy Girl and be done with it?

While others may turn around and walk out, I keep looking because what the heck else am I going to do for 9 hours? Plus my personal love of wine “the beverage” compels me to look deeper and read the labels: Valdvieso, Odfiel, Santa Helena, Carmeriere. Finally, something different! As I begin to chat with the shockingly good-looking young employee about Chilean wine, I’m excited by these wines’ stories buried deep in this boring shop. And then it struck me – by starting this journey of importation am I representing perhaps one of the last industries where the small guy really can participate? Can you find variation and artisanship behind the Clinic-style marketing? Folks are frustrated with wine because there is just “too much to choose from,” but with the consolidation of products, isn’t that a good thing? Shouldn’t we be relieved to see a big business that may continue to offer artisan work?

4 comments:

Marc said...

hello from Marc at GMF

Ryan, this looks really interesting and cool. I know nothing of wine save for the fact that I know I like it and that one shouldn't drink it from a box (past your mid 20's). I also read the post from your wife where she mentions working for Rick Steve's. We hosted him here at GMF back in the spring and he was the most amazing guest we have ever had. That even includes the German Chancellor. I always liked his books and tv shows but I never knew he was such a dynamic speaker. We all walked away from that presentation with a great deal of respect for Mr. Steve's is doing. SO best of luck to you both and keep the updates coming.

Marc Hutzell

Dan Hoke said...

One of the last places where the small guy can still make it, I'd say. I think any commodity that is labor intensive to produce can qualify. Others would be saffron, chocolate, vanilla, knives, vinegar, and jewelry.

Ashley & Ryan Sytsma said...

Hi Marc, In my other professional world I am Rick´s publicist. Ryan put me in touch with GMF when Rick was in DC. So glad to hear you enjoyed his visit!

And as for boxed wine...I think you can still drink it as long as it is good. :)

Ashley & Ryan Sytsma said...

Dan, You are very right. Many of the wineries in Argentina have side businesses in olive oil and nuts. I am just still amazed that these labor intensive products are affordable. But they are! Lucky us.